Malaria, swimming in the Nile, and falling in love with Uganda

After forty-eight hours of layovers and flights, I returned to Minnesota a week ago.  It's good to be home, despite the heaps of snow and cold (I became too acclimated to the heat!), but I find myself missing bits and pieces of Uganda every day. 

The last two weeks in Entebbe and elsewhere turned out to be busy and really eye-opening as Leah and I prepared to leave Uganda's beautiful scenery and people. There is simply too much to cover, so maybe I'll just tell share a few 'highlights.'

Malaria

The Wednesday before we were to leave, I began feeling extremely tired. The babies had just been put down for their nap, and I wanted to crawl in with them. Leah was sweet enough to leave Acacia Tree early with me, so I could try to sleep. I woke up feeling better, but still exhausted. By that evening, I felt much worse and despite the heat, couldn't stop shivering. A Ugandan worker at the hostel told Leah my symptoms were compatible with Malaria, so at nearly midnight we called a boda and made our way to a clinic. Once there, we learned there wasn't a single doctor or nurse on duty. Fortunately for me, prescriptions aren't needed to get medication, so after explaining my symptoms to the pharmacist, I received a drug called Lumarten. I was to take eight pills a day for the next three days, and was told I should be feeling better within a couple of days.

After a fitful night of sleep, I was feeling terrible. My head and stomach ached, I was freezing despite a heavy sweatshirt and blanket, and couldn't keep the drugs down. Leah and I were supposed to travel to the Nile that day, but postponed our plans. At least for a few hours.  By late morning, I was no longer feeling cold and not wanting to give up the opportunity to experience the Nile, Leah and I set off for Hairy Lemon's, an island retreat near the village of Nazigo, Uganda.

Hairy Lemon's Island

The hot and bumpy five hour coaster ride from Entebbe to Nazigo proved to be well worth it as we reached the banks of the Nile. Despite feeling nauseous throughout the entire ride, the distractions of the drive helped keep me occupied. Once we reached Nazigo, we found a boda and began a stunning twenty minute ride down dusty red roads, passing children waving at us with bright smiles, scattered rows of banana trees, and huts colored with women out washing laundry.  When we reached the banks of the river, Leah rang a gong hanging from a tree, and within a few minutes, a bright yellow canoe appeared to row us to the island. I wanted to pinch myself.

After five hours in the coaster we made it to Hairy Lemons!

The island and Hairy Lemons was more picturesque than I expected. Located on a quiet spot on the Nile, the island was initially bought by an Australian couple who met at bar in Ireland called "Hairy Lemons." After building bungalows and making the island habitable, the couple lost their passion for the island a few years later. Only eight months ago the island had been repurchased by an interesting South African man whom Leah and I had the pleasure of getting to know.

En route to the island via canoe

 Swimming in the Nile

We fell in love with the island and the Nile on the spot. The water was clean and clear with a sandy bottom. Risking bilharzia (a waterborne parasite), Leah and I even decided to go swimming. The water was refreshing, and if we tired of swimming, we'd float on our backs and the let the current push us along. The next day, with the help of a British man who knew how to kill snakes (we were told vipers and mambas populate the island), we ventured to the 'Jacuzzi,'  a naturally made pool created by a small water fall. The whole experience was unreal. That afternoon the owner of the island, Paul, canoed Leah and I across the Nile to watch the world champions of kayaking practice on the "Nile Special," one of the world's best waves.

                                                   The Nile in the mist of early morning

Our boys

In our last two weeks, the boys at Acacia Tree really seemed to thrive. Jonathan, the HIV positive, autistic four year old, showed strong signs of attachment; a developmental milestone. He fussed when I set him down, and even tried walking to me more than once! It was really rewarding to finally experience his personality. Because of his autism, Jonathan would often retreat into his own little world, so it was especially exciting to watch him engage with the present.

Fifteen month old Henry, formally named Isaac, also made progress. He loved to practice his walking, and by the time he's adopted in just a couple of months, I have no doubt that he'll be walking himself into all sorts of trouble. Two month old John Mark continued to gain weight during our time there, and really acted like a happy baby. He took an especial liking to Leah--probably because she held him nonstop!;)

Moses stole my heart. Kissing him goodbye in his baby blue footie pajamas on our last night in Entebbe felt abrupt; I wasn't ready to leave him. Of course, he was a very easy baby to fall in love with between his darling habit of waving and his new habit of peeking down my shirt, and then looking up with a sly grin. Thankfully, he was left in very good hands and I know he'll continue to be well loved.

With baby Moses

Divine Orphanage

I'll be preparing to send over toys and books for the children at the Divine Orphanage. If you'd like to send anything over, I can assure you it will be appreciated and well used. Once again the address is:

Molly Tabaro S.P.
Divine Orphanage Secondary School                                 
PO Box 55
Baita, Entebbe
Uganda   

Leah and I are also talking with Molly, the director, about setting up sponsorship for the children's school fees. Currently, only six of the fifty-three children are sponsored. If you're interested in sponsoring one of the many orphans, please let me know and I will keep you posted on all updates.

                                           Molly with some of the fifty-three orphans of Divine

I'm confident God has special plans for Uganda, and I feel so blessed to have been a part of them, if only for a short time. I think I'll be back.

Em

Divine Orphanage Secondary School

This morning at Acacia Tree a girl we hadn’t met arrived, wanting to bring me and Leah to an orphanage she volunteers at. We were reluctant to leave the boys and weren’t in the mood for walking out in sun after becoming painfully sun burnt this weekend. We ended up going anyway.

We walked from Acacia Tree to the taxi park in Kitooro, and from there caught a coaster to the orphanage, located not far from Lake Victoria down a path of red dirt. The sights of the children and their orphanage were overwhelming. The current center for the children is composed of three rooms with bunk beds, sleeping three to a bed, and a playroom recently painted blue and yellow. The director, Molly Tabaro, has taken in fifty-three Ugandan children, even though she has no staff and only a few Ugandan volunteers. The children here at Divine come from all over Uganda, many of who Molly found abandoned, abused, and sick sleeping under trees and in the streets. She pays for their schooling, meals, and clothing all on her own. When asked if this is difficult for her, Molly said she often doesn’t know where the next meal will come from, but she trusts God to provide.

After touring their rooms, we met the children too little to attend school. Before we could step through the door into their makeshift playroom, Leah and I were overwhelmed with small brown hands touching our hair—they’d never seen blonde hair before—our earrings, our clothes, our mouths; we were utterly fascinating to them.  The children told us their names, but most couldn’t say more than that, so for the remainder of the afternoon we communicated through touch. The children, especially the little girls, seemed so desperate to be held. The youngest of the girls, three year olds Kavena and Shiana, clung to us and were so visibly happy it made me feel mean to set them down as we said goodbye.

                                           Falling in love with the children at the Divine Orphanage

While we were there, the thirty children took turns removing their sole set of clothing to jump in an undersized inflatable pool. They have no toys, books, pillows, and very few blankets. The children passed around a pink yo yo while we were there. It was the only toy I saw.

I know God’s timing is perfect, but Leah and I felt guilty for not learning of Divine sooner. They urgently need volunteers to play with and teach the children English and numbers, and so in this short time we have left in Uganda, we’re going to spend as much time as we can with them. Tomorrow Leah and I plan on going to the market to look for clothing and toys for the children. We also want to encourage you to send donations of clothing, books and toys to Molly and the kids. They would be so grateful for the used items you no longer use. Divine Orphanage is relatively new and there is no website available for information, but please contact me if you would like to learn more about how to support Molly. She can receive all packages at:

Molly Tabaro S.P.
Divine Orphanage Secondary School                                 
PO Box 55
Baita, Entebbe
Uganda                                                                                                                                                                      

I think it is rare to come across an organization where finances are so wisely used, but this is so at Divine Orphanage. She is currently in the process of constructing a larger home for the children, which Leah and I also toured. Molly’s love and interest in all fifty-three of the children is tangible, and Leah and I felt instantly at peace in her presence.  It was Molly who found baby Moses under a tree, and brought him to Acacia Tree, genuinely believing he wouldn’t live through the day. I’m inspired by her heart and deeply encouraged by her capacity to love and care for so many. God has completely laid this ministry on my heart, and I’m excited to see the impact we can have on these beautiful children.

                                          With Molly, the director and founder of the orphanage
More soon-
E.

Entebbe: Week Three

Every day I fall more in love with life here, and the thought of leaving Entebbe in ten days, seems far too soon. Uganda, to use Leah’s word, is lovable. Despite the poverty and numerous other problems facing the country, Ugandans seem to go about their day with a zest for enjoying whatever the day brings. On our daily walk to Acacia Tree we pass the President’s House and its perfectly manicured lawns on one side of the road, and shacks made of scrap metal and wood with roofs made of heavy leaves on the other. The distribution of wealth here is terribly uneven, and I’ve only experienced the south of Uganda. Northern Uganda is said to be a century and a half behind the south developmentally, in large part because of the Lord’s Resistance Army who have rebelled against the government for the past twenty plus years. The LRA is considered a terrorist organization because of the atrocities they have inflicted on the North, namely murder, abduction, and sex slavery. The majority of soldiers fighting for the LRA are children. President Obama recently signed a bill to stop the LRA, but outbreaks have still occurred. With the exception of a necklace of mine being stolen, I’ve had only positive experiences here. It’s difficult to fathom that such violence can continue in the same country I love so well.

The babies at Acacia Tree continue to thrive, and it’s going to be so hard leaving ‘my boys.’ My favorite part of the day with the babies is bath time. Even though I think it’s always hot here, the babies are more sensitive to temperature, so most of the time we bathe them indoors. Sometimes, though, we fill up a couple ‘buckets’ with water from the garden hose and bathe the boys in the sunshine. Isaac –I mean Henry (his adoptive parents changed his name)—and Moses loved it from the first, but Jonathan was uncomfortable. Jonathan, ‘JoJo,’ is HIV positive and also has autism and Down syndrome. New experiences are generally hard for him, but after awhile, he loved bathing outside. He leaned back and splashed the water with his brown hands; I’ve never seen him so visibly content. Meanwhile, baby Moses has continued learning more ‘tricks,’ his most recent being kissing Leah on the hand. I want to keep him!

This weekend we stayed in Entebbe and discovered the joys of the outdoor pool at the Lake Victoria Hotel. We paid the sh10,000 (five dollars)to gain entrance, and spent the day in and out of the water and getting sun burnt, despite several applications of sunscreen! Somewhat tired of chapatti and rolex (a Ugandan dinner—somewhat like an omelet in a wrap) for dinner, we decided to go out for Indian at “4 Points.” It’s an outdoor restaurant with a ton of character and is considered one of the best places to eat in Entebbe. Part of the restaurant is a tiny bakery and patisserie shop owned by a Kenyan couple—if only I’d discovered it sooner!

My English friend Nicky and me at "4 Points"

John 15:12, “This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you.”

E.

Kampala and Mukono

Leah and I just returned to Entebbe— it feels so good to be ‘home.’ It was certainly a weekend of new experiences as we traveled to the capitol city of Kampala and a few villages along the way. Over and over again I wanted to pinch myself. I kept thinking “I’ve never done the things I did today.”

We began the weekend by taking a coaster, a public taxi used all over Uganda, to Kampala. The ride was pretty as we passed green hills covered in banana trees and other tropical vegetation, but quite hot and stuffy. It seems to be the Ugandan way to fill coasters to capacity! The ride wasn’t really bad, however, until we reached Kampala. I’ve never been more frightened in a car! At one point, the coaster turned abruptly down a road so narrow I thought it was a sidewalk, and thought for sure we’d tip into the ravine lining the street. Meanwhile, cars were trying to pass and people walking in the middle of the street, dodging cars and trying to sell us anything from peanuts to sunglasses through the coaster windows.  I really can’t glamorize anything about Kampala; it’s the dirtiest city I’ve ever visited.

Luckily, we only stayed in Kampala long enough to find a taxi to take us to the small town of Mukono. Once there, we met Leah’s sweet friend, Dan, a professor at Uganda Christian University. Quite wealthy by Ugandan standards, Dan graciously invited us into his lovely home. We were so exhausted and sweaty by the time we arrived, the first thing we did was shower. Out of a bucket. This is common in Uganda, but whether from the heat or the near death experiences of Kampala, we couldn’t stop laughing! When we finally did fall asleep, we were woken half the night by howling dogs.*

The next morning we headed into Kampala to listen to Dan’s lecture at the UCU Kampala campus. Towards the end of class, Leah and I were asked to talk about American “feeding habits” as the class had just finished a discussion on nutrition. We did our best to summarize nutrition in the U.S. in the time given, but could have used more preparation. When Dan asked the class if they had any questions for us, a boy in the back row quickly shot up his hand: “What is your contact information?” This is a question we are constantly asked. We spent nearly all Saturday in Kampala and the whole day Leah and I warded off men. I’ve never felt so on guard and on display. Many Ugandans believe that all mzungus are extremely wealthy, and will beg for money to no end.

On Sunday we went into Mukono to experience a Ugandan church service and tour UCU. It was a beautiful campus spread across several acres, but so much of it was simply undeveloped. A library is just now being built. It is Uganda’s largest school and is respected as one of Africa’s top universities.

Entebbe feels so safe compared to Kampala, and I realize I’ve been somewhat sheltered here.  As we walked in Kampala we frequently saw children on the street, many of them no older than three, holding up their small hands. Apparently, their parents watch from a distance, but it simply disgusted me to see these tiny children, most no older than my little sisters, out on the street. I couldn’t pass them by without putting a coin in their hands, even though it would likely go back to their parents. I’ve never experienced such poverty before.

Back to Acacia tree in the morning. I’m missing all our boys.

-Em

*Note to Dan: Leah and I had nothing short of a wonderful time. Thank you for your generous hospitality and your wonderful tour of Kampala. God bless!

Babies, and monkeys, and jackfruit, oh my!

Leah and I just returned from Kitooro Market, a huge bazaar with everything from fresh mangoes and jackfruit to spare car parts and heaps of silverfish.  It’s a hot Tuesday afternoon, and I my heart skipped a beat when I found a coke light at the market today—they’re hard to find here!

We spent all morning at Acacia Tree, leaving just after the babies went down for their nap. It’s rewarding to learn a little more about their personalities every day. I shouldn’t choose favorites, but baby Moses is mine. He’s been at AT for almost five months now, but because his mother can’t be found, isn’t yet eligible for adoption. If his mother isn’t found soon, AT will schedule a court hearing, and it will be decided there whether Moses can be adopted or possibly placed with family members. Uganda is a very Christian country, and the courts generally rule in favor of keeping babies (even if they are abandoned by their parents) in the country because the courts believe they already have a father—in Jesus. As a Christian, this has been difficult for me to understand—when a baby could be so loved and wanted elsewhere, why keep them in Uganda? It’s common for family members to take in nieces and nephews whose parents have died as well, but since the poverty level is so high, that also seems a poor option.

Learning the stories of the babies who have come to Acacia Tree has been humbling. Moses was found by a friend of Robin’s (director of AT) lying under a tree. At first, she thought he was a puppy, much less a tiny malnourished baby. When his mother was located at the time, it was discovered that she is severely mentally ill and often disappeared for long periods of time.  

Moses

One month old John Mark actually arrived on my first day at AT. Leah and I were having lunch there when a woman was found lying underneath a tree right outside the gate with an infant. Robin went out to see if the woman needed help, but she refused.  Blessed, one of the workers at AT, was able to persuade the woman to come inside.  The woman was only fifteen and was considering bringing the baby to Entebbe’s ‘baby dumping grounds’ since she couldn’t care for him. It was mere chance that she ended up right outside Acacia Tree.

A legal aid was called to receive a statement from the young woman and her signature signing the release of her son. The woman was sobbing during this process, and I felt guilty being in the same room. She had no privacy at all, which is very much the Ugandan way, I hear. Apparently, “everything is everybody’s business” here.

Almost one week later, John Mark, as Robin has named him, is doing remarkably well. He’ll soon be tested for HIV, but Robin believes he’ll be adopted in no time at all. Whenever I see him it’s hard not to think of his mom—he looks just like her.

Outside of the poverty levels here, Entebbe is beautiful. Since the airport is located here, there are several nice restaurants, and the beach at Lake Victoria is a dream. Leah and I explored Entebbe’s Botanical Gardens on Sunday. Uganda is home to cocoa trees, every kind of fruit tree you might imagine, and also produces spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg. The Gardens were actually a real rainforest (it’s where the old Tarzan film was taped), and it was like nothing I’d ever seen before. When we finished our guided tour, we spread out a blanket and watched the monkeys playing in the trees. They were hardly afraid of us, coming only a few feet away.

The local and national Ugandan elections are this month, so candidate posters are plastered everywhere. Campaign trucks frequently drive around the streets and neighborhoods, blasting music and shouting at people to vote. The current president, Museveni, has been in power for twenty-five years and most Ugandans passionately want him out of office.

The United Nations has a strong presence here, and I learned, is currently in the process of moving all east African bases to Uganda, since it is one of the most stable countries in East Africa. I feel disillusioned by the UN after hearing that prostitution rates increase when they enter a city. Eh.

This is long enough!

Em

Entebbe: Day 5

Time really slows down here, even though the days go by so quickly!  Leah and I’ve had a full last few days. Yesterday we began work at the baby home Acacia Tree.  It’s a nice twenty minute walk from the hostel—on our way we pass the President’s house, which looks a lot like the White House.  Acacia Tree is actually run from Robin Hancock’s, the founder and director of AT, home.  I’m amazed at how many people live there. There’s currently four babies there as well as Robin, her two Ugandian daughters and Blessed and Desire, the helpers at AT. We’re hoping more babies arrive soon, but we’ve still managed to stay busy.

Children are usually brought to Acacia Tree if they’re malnourished or abandoned by their parents. The babies there now are all boys: Jonathan, Isaac, Moses (my favorite!), and little John Mark.  Jonathan is the smallest four year old I’ve ever seen, and is HIV positive. He’s very sweet, and also very independent. He doesn’t really like being held.  Isaac will be soon be adopted by an American couple. He’s just over a year old, and very healthy. He was brought to AT after his mother died and his father was unable to care for him. Baby Moses came to AT severely malnourished after his mentally ill mother also couldn’t care for him. He’s now a year and half, and has only recently begun gaining weight. I’ve quickly fallen in love with him. He has this sweet habit of waving to you whenever you make eye contact with him. He doesn’t have enough muscle strength to stand on his own yet, but he should after gaining more weight. Olive oil is mixed in with all his bottles and meals to plump him up. Another secret baby plumping trick is called ‘Plumpy Nut.’ It’s a concoction of peanut butter, sugar, and Crisco!

The hardest part about being here is when children from the street rush up to me and Leah because we’re mzungu. Most of the time they’re simply being friendly, but sometimes they ask us for money and clothes. Fortunately, Leah stops me from emptying my pockets! And it’s good because the Ugandians must learn to rely less on outside aide.

Today’s Saturday, so now on to the beach at Lake Victoria! In other news, the fruit is unbelievable here! I could eat pineapple here every day all day.

More soon.

E.

Entebbe: First Impressions

Currently sipping an iced latte next to a banana tree at Anna's Corner in Entebbe, Uganda. Leah and I found this place on our walk to the city centre this morning, and made a note to return later. It's somewhat hard to believe this is my first day here. Seen and done so much.

Everything I've seen today has been new. The little girls wear flowergirl-like dresses outside to play, and all the children I've seen thus far are so happy. This afternoon, Leah and I were walking and a little girl said hello to us. She was the friendliest thing I've ever seen: "My name is Peace and I'm going to Florida in June. What's your name? Can I have your email and you can meet me in Florida?" We both gave her our email (couldn't say no!), and I gave her a granola bar and some fruit snacks; you'd think I handed her a winning lotto ticket! She gave me a big smile and said, "I love you so much!" Some other children approached us (Alice, Beatrice, Patience, and another Peace) and they seemed so tickled by us. When we left they gave us another hug, just smiling these huge grins.

Tomorrow we begin volunteering at Acacia Tree, a baby home here in Entebbe for children three years and under. It's apparently only a short walk from our hostel, which is by far, the nicest hostel I've ever seen! We have our own porch, bathroom, and little dining room table. I feel spoiled, which I certainly hadn't expected to feel in Africa.

Leah on our porch

The market was crowded and smelled of dirt, warm raw meat, and sweat. We purchased a pineapple for dinner tonight and I found a sundress for 20,000 shillings (ten bucks!). I feel so wealthy here. Afterwards, I dared my first boda-boda ride! It's a tiny motorcyle you hop on, and it's the most common form of transport here. They are also the most common form of fatal accidents here, so your prayers are yet needed!

I have a feeling I won't want to go home.